Have you wanted to redesign your floor for a long time or repair old stairs? We show you how to professionally repair tiles and fittings in the kitchen. A+ Construction & Remodelling tips will help you with the renovation work . Also: Practical DIY tips for painting, wallpapering and varnishing.
1. Remove the dowel
Basically, we recommend leaving the old dowel in the wall, as the dowel hole is enlarged even further by pulling out the dowel. However, if you cannot avoid it because a new hole is to be drilled in the immediate vicinity and the old one is to be filled with plaster, then you take a corkscrew, screw it into the dowel and pull it out of the wall.
2. Cotton wool for the wall
This trick works particularly well with woodchip wallpaper. Instead of plaster, dowel holes are simply filled with a ball of cotton wool and then dabbed over with wall paint.
3. Find the right anchor
Doesn’t hold up, doesn’t exist: There is the right dowel for every wall. You can find detailed information in the brochure “Der dowel finder” from Fischerwerke (available in the hardware store on the Fischer dowel shelf)
4. Fill cracks
Small cracks, be it stress cracks in new buildings or signs of aging in old buildings, can be filled quickly and easily with an acrylic joint compound. Acrylic has the advantage here that everything can be painted over afterwards. To smooth the grout, use a spatula or your own finger dipped in detergent.
5. Expose cracks
Deep cracks are opened with a hammer and chisel down to the masonry, moistened with a sponge and only then filled with filler.
6. Mix the plaster of paris
The secret of the lump-free mass lies in the mixing sequence. First comes the water, then the plaster of paris. Never the other way around! The plaster beaker is only about a third filled with water and the plaster gradually sprinkled in until it is evenly close to the water surface. Let the mixture soak for a short time and mix the plaster with a narrow spatula to a smooth mass.
7. Lay the cable
Cables under plaster to relocate is an extremely tedious and dirty work. Some even try a hammer and chisel! So make it easy for yourself and rent a wall chaser with a vacuum cleaner connection. You can get such devices for around 25 euros per day or 40 euros for the weekend. An investment that quickly pays for itself – especially with hard solid masonry.
8. Buy cheap wall grinder
Anyone who wants to lay a cable duct exclusively in plaster or lightweight building blocks is well looked after with a small wall chaser (e.g. from Wolfcraft). It is attached to a drill as an additional device and costs around 55 euros including a carbide-tipped cutter
9. Keep your distance
Cables, sockets and junction boxes are installed 30 cm above the floor and 30 cm below the ceiling. The distance to doors and windows is 15 cm. The light switches are 105 cm high.
10. Lay the electrical cable
Do you want to lay a cable in the milled channel, but don’t have cable clamps? Drive small nails into the wall next to the cable, crisscrossing them, then seal the slot with plaster of paris. Once the plaster of paris is dry, the nails are removed and the holes are reworked with plaster of paris.
11. Bridge cracks
Stress cracks, caused by different building materials, will break open again and again after filling. A self-adhesive tear tape made of fabric can help.
12. Wall plaster without waves
Plumbing and flush mounted metal plaster strips guarantee an even application of the plaster mortar. Important: Attach the strips so that the plaster board rests well.
13. Detect live power lines
The Bosch PDO Multi tracking device detects live power lines, ferrous and non-ferrous metals (such as copper pipes) and even wooden substructures in drywall! Available for just under 90 euros in the hardware store
14. Knot the cable
Even if it sounds strange – it helps a lot: Under tension, for example when you climb a ladder with an electrical device, some plugs come loose from the coupling. Just make a knot around the connection with the cables and everything will hold perfectly. If you like it more elegant, you can buy safety boxes that serve this purpose, but also keep out splash water.
15. The choice of paint roller
Long-pile rolls are particularly suitable for thin paints. They absorb more of it and are more suitable for coarse-pored walls (rough plaster). Rolls with a medium pile are used for smooth walls; pasty and solid colors can be processed well with short pile models. They are also smaller and lighter, which makes them easier to hold.
16. Assess color
A wall color has a different effect depending on the incidence of light, because vertical surfaces reflect light less than horizontal surfaces. The color should therefore also be assessed where it will later be applied, namely on the wall. To do this, make a color sample on a piece of wallpaper and try out this color sample on the corresponding wall. It has proven useful to let the color samples hang for a few days in order to let the color take effect.
17. Check the subsurface
If the old wall paint can be rubbed off by hand, as in the photo, one thing is certain: neither wallpaper nor new paint will stick here. The so strongly chalking old wall paint must be washed off thoroughly with water. After drying, the wall is then painted with a deep primer and then colored.
18. Protect floors
Carpets, wooden floors and tiles can be easily protected from paint splashes by using a protective film with a self-adhesive edge. The adhesive strip is glued along the baseboard and then the film is unfolded. There are different sizes, for example from Tesa
19. Use telescopic rod
In order to be able to paint on high walls and ceilings effortlessly, a telescopic rod is used as an extension, which can be extended up to 3 m in length. The paint roller is simply pushed onto the telescopic rod.
20. Read in color samples
You saw a wall color in the interior magazine but you don’t know the manufacturer’s name? No problem for color mixing machines with an integrated scanner. Color samples you bring with you are read in with the computer, which then mixes the right color together. This service is now available in many hardware stores.
21. Pre-treat the door frame
Before starting the painting work, the door frames should be masked with painter’s tape. If there is a joint between the frame and the wall, this is neatly sealed with an acrylic spatula.
22. Use corner roller
The corner roller is a great invention. This specialty has a tapered roll that is distributed in 90-degree inside corners.
23. Even coat of paint
First roll the soaked paint roller from bottom to top and only then distribute the paint criss-cross on the wall. Immediately put the next line (wet on wet) next to it and distribute it again. Always paint the walls continuously without pauses.
24. Painter’s tape
The industry has the right adhesive tape for every application and every masking width. For example, straight surfaces are masked with a smooth painter’s tape, while the extremely flexible painter’s tape is used for curves and curves.
25. Protect heating
The radiator roller fits exactly into the distance to the wall, but it also fully lubricates the radiator. Simply protect the radiator by putting masking paper over it.
26. Painting slap
Another nice product from the painter’s trade: the paint job. The velor cushion on the flexible bracket brings wall paint clean behind the radiator.
27. Bag rolls
Paint rolls that are still in use the next day are packed airtight in plastic bags overnight. Then you don’t have to wash out the paint roller!
28. Cover corners
A piece of cardboard is held as protection during painting so that no paint gets on the adjacent wall. We also recommend this procedure if you use different colors on two walls.
29. Remove the thermostat
So that the thermostat is not smeared when painting, it should be completely removed in summer. In winter the heating would be too hot, so it is better to cover the controller with painter’s tape.
30. Save paint residues
Paint residues should be kept for touch-up purposes. Cleaned pickle jars are ideal for this.
31. Draw a chalk line for wallpaper
So that the wallpaper strips are straight, a line is drawn about 50 cm from the wall using a chalk line. The second strip is then glued to this line. Only now do you glue the first strip.
32. Glue wallpaper with incidence of light
Ceilings should always be wallpapered with the incidence of light. This way the seams run towards the light and cannot form mini-shadows.
33. First roll of wallpaper
Do not start the first strip in a corner, but about 50 cm from the corner on the free wall. To do this, we recommend making an exact vertical mark with a pencil and solder. The first lane is worked towards this marking. Since you now have 50 cm out of the corner, you will get approx. 2 to 3 cm into the corner by train. Because you should never use wallpaper around an inside corner, but only briefly over it. The wallpaper may have to be cut off in the corner so that everything stays straight. With the adjoining wallpaper you just go over the first strip.
34. Cut the edges of wallpaper
Cutting into the edges makes wallpapering “around the corner” easier. Of course, this also applies to outside corners. Cut the strip of wallpaper at the window so that it only runs 1 to 2 cm to the corner. The membrane in the reveal is then glued so that it hits the corner exactly.
35. Ceiling helpers with wallpapering
The best way to wallpaper a ceiling is with two people. And so that the helper doesn’t have to balance on the ladder too, he or she remains on the floor and supports the upholsterer by holding the wallpaper strip under the ceiling with a shower squeegee. This trick with a broom is well known. Only that the broom is narrower.
36. Cut wallpaper
Since you always need a few centimeters longer, there is logically an overhang. This overhang can be marked with a pencil and then cut off with scissors or simply cut off with a spatula about 20 cm wide. To do this, press the spatula tightly against the baseboard and pull the rest of the wallpaper. You will see that it is not difficult at all.
37. Bumps in the wallpaper
If bumps appear in the wallpaper after drying, the area is moistened and glue is sprayed under the wallpaper with a syringe with a thick cannula (from the pharmacy). Spread the paste well and press everything down firmly with a smooth seam roller.
38. Wallpaper behind the heater
For this purpose, the wallpaper is cut in a comb shape: the upper area remains intact, the lower area is divided into strips. First the upper continuous area is glued on and then the individual strips of the “comb” are pressed on with the roller.
39. Measure the wallpaper
Not quite as accurate, because there is a non-wallpapered area behind the heater, but just as good: The brackets behind the radiator are measured, the dimensions are transferred to the sheets and the recesses are cut out. Then the wallpaper can be glued to the brackets behind the heater.
40. Direction of paint
Always start painting at the window and work your way away from the incidence of light. In this way, you can prevent possible approaches from becoming visible later.
41. Calculate the amount of paint
The range specifications refer to the painting of smooth walls. If you paint rough plaster or rough woodchip, the range is reduced by 10 to 30 percent.
42. Corners first
The corners of a wall are always painted with a brush first, but not in the whole room. The paint should always be painted wet on wet so that the transitions cannot be seen.
43. Store paint correctly
Paints can be stored for a long time if you put a little water or turpentine on the surface.
44. The correct room temperature
A normal room temperature must prevail when painting or wallpapering. It is wrong to turn the heating on fully or to set the window to a draft because this would result in drying out too quickly.
45. steel wool
Impurities on paint surfaces can be carefully removed with steel wool without removing a lot of paint. Then paint everything again dust-free.
46. Avoid strong color differences
If a wall shows significant color differences after painting, the entire wall should be treated with deep primer. Then paint everything again.
47. Airborne dust
Persistent dust settles on the surface when painting: stretch wet sheets!
48. Material requirements for wallpaper
To calculate how much wallpaper you need, multiply the height of the room by the length of the wall. Example: Your room height is 275 cm and you measure a wall length (without doors and windows) of 15 m with the folding rule. You therefore need nine rolls with the standard dimensions of 10.5 x 0.53 m for this area. Here you will find other important tips on the subject of walls and paintings .
49. Drill tiles
A strip of adhesive parcel tape is stuck to the tile to prevent the drill from slipping. Important: it is essential to drill through the tile without hammering.
50. Replace the floor tile
Cut out the joints around the tile with a small milling cutter and a hard metal milling insert (e.g. Dremel Multi). Now smash the tile and pry out. So the other tiles remain intact. You don’t just want to replace a tile, but want to completely renovate your bathroom? Here’s how to do it best .
51. Cool tiles
The tool can burn out quickly when drilling through hard tiles. The little trick to prevent this from happening: surround the drilling area with a wreath of modeling or modeling clay and pour some water into it to cool it down. Then drill with a glass drill at low speed.
52. Cut tiles correctly
Some still use glass cutters and rulers for this. But it is faster, more precise and with less waste with a tile cutter. At around 20 euros, this is so inexpensive that it is hardly worth borrowing for a fee.
53. Electric tile cutter for hard tiles
Anyone who has large areas to tile or is processing very hard tiles is well advised to use an electric tile cutter. The circular saw-like device has a diamond-set saw blade. A worthwhile investment at around 50 euros.
54. Tile hole cutter
To get larger holes for supply lines or sockets in tiles, you use a tile hole cutter that can be clamped in normal drill chucks. It is essential to proceed with a low speed and with great care.
55. Tile corners
Start at the corner with a whole tile and determine the edge overhang with a remnant of tile.
56. Plaster tiles
With the renovation system “Instead of tiles” from Ultrament, the walls can be made smooth or structured without chipping off the old tiles. The system consists of a primer, cover filler, white paint, the effect glazes in different colors and sealing. From around 125 euros, sufficient for a good 6 square meters.
57. Tile on tile
Prime with a thin layer of adhesive and allow to dry. Then apply the actual adhesive layer (e.g. safety adhesive from Lugato). Comb through with the notched trowel and apply the tiles immediately.
58. Apply tile varnish
Tiles that have become unsightly can be refreshed with tile varnish. Prime tile joints and edges with a brush. Then apply the varnish with the paint roller. The surface must be cleaned thoroughly beforehand.
59. Moisture protection
Even un-tiled walls in the bathroom and kitchen can be effectively protected against water and soap stains with a seal (e.g. Molto wallpaper protection). Also suitable for the subsequent treatment of wallpaper because the coating is washable and scrubbable. Simply apply with the roller.
60. Grouting properly
When sealing joints in the bathroom and kitchen with silicone, small special fillers made of elastic plastic (available in hardware stores) prove to be useful helpers. Pull the tool over the mass and remove the excess. Only then use detergent and your index finger to smooth the silicone and then let it dry.
61. Repair broken concealed hinges
If such a mishap happens, you don’t have to throw away the good piece of furniture right away. With a two-component wood repair putty, even large hinges can be glued in firmly again. After the two components have been mixed, the putty must be used quickly as it hardens very quickly. Here we explain in detail how to properly repair door hinges .
62. Touch up the enamel
Whether bathtub, wash basin or toilet: Small wounds can be quickly repaired with a repair kit. Such sets (for example from Jaeger) consist of sandpaper, filler and hardener as well as spray paint. When mixing the filler and hardener, the room must be well ventilated and protective gloves must be worn!
63. Repairing imperfections in acrylic coating
Small areas of damage in an acrylic coating can be removed with the Aquatic polishing set. The set consists of wet sandpaper of various grains, an abrasive paste and a polishing agent. Price about 23 euros.
64. Painting the bathtub
In the event of extensive damage, tubs can be recoated with the special two-component paint from Molto. After applying it with a brush or roller, the bathtub looks like new again and is almost as resistant.
65. Remove the mirror
Tie a few knots on a piece of dental floss. With the “wire saw” produced in this way, glued mirrors can be removed from the wall without having to use a hammer and chisel.
66. Clean the joints
Normal household vinegar, pure or diluted, often works wonders for mold stains and mold growth. If you want to completely renew the joint, read here how to do it .
67. Free pipe
If the drain is clogged, you don’t have to resort to the chemical club . Add 150 g of baking soda and then 230 ml of household vinegar. When the foaming subsides, rinse with hot water then thoroughly with cold water. Without side effects.